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Cabo
Pulmo
You'll Love Her Way
BY JENNA
CAVELLE
For all of this and
more, we have fallen in love with her
spirit, her ocean, her reef, her animals
and her people. And it happened so fast
that we didn’t know what hit us
— we found ourselves deeply heartbroken
at the possibility of getting it all wrong,
falling short, and losing her forever.
As grand as she is,
Cabo Pulmo is equally vulnerable. If ever
we leaned into her for sustenance or craved
her inspiration, she has been there without
hesitation. But we have not returned the
sentiment. We’ve raped her reef,
polluted her waters,
littered her shores and forgotten her
people.
She deserves our restitution, for we have
not treated heras she has treated us.
We should feel small because we are. Nevertheless,
we are her children and her guests. She
has nourished, taught and hosted us well.
We know what to do and
the time is now…
CABO PULMO IS LOCATED
JUST
60 miles north of Baja’s tourism
epicenter, Los Cabos. This jewel of the
East Cape region of Baja California Sur
stretches five miles from the northernmost
tip, Pulmo Point to the southernmost tip,
Los Frailes. Surrounded by undeveloped
desert and a stunning mountain range,
the pristine beaches of Cabo Pulmo give
way to a shallow bay that cradles one
of three living reefs (the only hard coral
reef) in North America.
The Cabo Pulmo Reef has eight fingers
of hard coral reef, providing a safe haven
for many of the 800 species of marine
animals found throughout the Sea of Cortez.
The rich biodiversity of the area is unparalleled
and as a result was targeted by overzealous
sport and commercial fisherman during
the 80’s. Abusive over fishing and
a tremendous decline in fish population
caused great concern in the local community,
who subsequently lobbied the government
to protect the region. Moreover, a series
of studies at UABCS were directed by lead
biologist Dr. Oscar Arizpe to provide
strong supporting the biological relevance
Pulmo and the Sea of Cortez. Dr.Arízpe
the first scientist to perform systematic
research on the marine animals. his findings,
on June 15, 1995 Ernesto Zedillo declared
the 7,111 and waters surrounding Cabo
National Marine Park.
Although conservation efforts in the right
direction, federal enforcement and financial
aid remains scarce quest to protect Cabo
Pulmo National falls heavily on the shoulders
of community of just 113 residents. people
here are positive and last Comisión
Nacional de Áreas Naturales Protegidas,
also known as CONANP, the first official
Park Director, Carlos to direct conservation
efforts in the a massive undertaking but
local citizens international conservation
groups working together with the new park
to implement programs such as park enforcement,
reef monitoring, nest monitoring sea turtles
and beach clean-ups.
Spend even a modicum
of time interacting with the people of
Cabo Pulmo and you’ll experience
a community rooted in family and united
by a common goal to protect their home.
The small town of concerned citizens,
young and old alike, are taking positive
action whenever, wherever, however possible.
A local dive shop owner speaks of a donation
program he’s integrating into his
business to help raise money for park
enforcement. Another concerned individual
patrols the park alerting visitors of
simple rules like no fishing or anchoring
in the park. Children can be seen collecting
trash and making signs that display park
rules. Biologists, conservationists, media
and tourists attend community meetings
to share ideas and support efforts being
developed by the local community.
From friendly gatherings to ecology programs
to simply enjoying the park, a strong
sense of community is what binds the people
of Cabo Pulmo together. The question is,
can they bring about the change required
to preserve their home for future generations?
Unlike the sea, our
relationship to the earth is seldom as
deep, yet we live because the earth lives.
Conservation is the preservation, management
and care of natural and cultural resources;
a process that requires education and
application for it to work.We cannot protect
that which we do not understand. In the
expansion of our minds and the wake of
our hearts, the quest to protect Cabo
Pulmo has begun to take shape. On the
beach of Cabo Pulmo a young Mexican boy
approached a man who was littering the
shore. Softly and respectfully he spoke,
“Excuse me sir, please do not throw
trash here. This is where I live.”
A local recalls this
incident to illustrate how children in
Cabo Pulmo are “thinking green”
and working to make a difference. Conservation
is serious business to these kids and
the children in Cabo Pulmo are local heroes.
Mindful and generous; they participate
in beach clean-ups, sell wristbands to
raise money for the park, patrol turtle
nesting sites and release hatchlings.
I step out of my bungalow
for an afternoon walk to find a group
of boys piled atop a canary yellow ATV,
arms flailing and shouting “Tortugas!
Tortugas!” We grab the cameras and
follow by car. After a few miles, we abandon
the car and walk down a long stretch of
secluded beach that bends around the northern
tip of Cabo Pulmo. We approach the boys
as they sift through nests of sand. Patiently
and carefully, they prepare a total of
ten hatchlings for their difficult journey.
The first hatchling scrambles instictively
toward the sea. The boys step aside and
the other turtles follow. In awe, I watch
their tiny bodies push through the thick,
wet sand. It takes nearly half an hour
for them to reach the shoreline where
they encounter rough waves difficult to
penetrate. Each time they try to enter
the ocean, a powerful wave slams their
bodies against the sand, hurling them
back to where they started. This goes
on for over an hour. I was certain with
each subsequent blow that this would be
the wave that would knock the life out
of them. Their determination was staggering
and in the end, all ten turtles made the
sea their home. The fact these turtles
make it this far is a miracle and the
children are their angels.
Cabo Pulmo Beach Resort,
founded by Cole Barrymore, features a
full-service dive center. Lively hosts
indeed,Cole and his team of Padi-certified
divemasters know how to serve up fun and
adventure in heaping supply. Our morning
with Cole began gliding through the warm,
blue waters of the marine park in a traditional
Mexican boat called a panga. Our original
plan was to head north along the reef,
but we gladly switched gears when someone
observed a sea lion feeding on a large
bait ball of green jacks.
I’d never seen a sea lion feeding
before and
I was moving so fast from the excitement,
I could barely get my snorkeling gear
on. I finally fixed my mask and fins and
fell backwards into the ocean. I swam
alongside the large bull sea lion in close
proximity for such a long while that I
lost all sense of time. The sea lion’s
labors were, for the most part, all about
breakfast. But to my delight, he took
several breaks, swimming and dancing like
an ocean ballerina in perfect sync, first
with me, then back to chasing jacks and
then with me again.
Later that afternoon,
we joined Rogelio Magos, manager of Cabo
Pulmo Divers, another dive operation on
the south end of town. We made our way
to the sea lion colony at the southern
tip of the park called Cabo Frailes. As
we approached the point, our captain,
Manuel Castro Flores and Rogelio scoured
the area; they were looking for something.
We steered slightly inland to a rock cove
where a man was fishing with a handline.
Rogelio addressed him politely and warned,
“There is no fishing allowed in
the marine park, this is a protected area.
If you do not stop fishing I will report
you to the authoritie and you will be
subject to a $500 fine.”
At first, the fisherman
did not budge so we moved in closer and
took a few pictures to document the incident
and show him that this was serious. Finally,
he pulled his line from the water and
left in a huff. Rogelio was frustrated
as the incident emphasized the concern
about the lack of park enforcement. I
was impressed how skillfully and politely
that Rogelio handled the situation and
realized that these people really do want
to make a difference. I found out later
that Rogelio and the community donate
generous amounts of their time to patrol
the park whenever possible. In the high
season when it’s busier and they
are working long hours, it’s extremely
difficult to find time to monitor the
park.
At the end of the long day, we found ourselves
on the beach at La Palapa, a local hangout
that serves up great tacos and plenty
of cold beer.
The next afternoon,
I joined Roger for a hike along the bluffs
overlooking Los Frailes to hear the story
how Mario Castro, owner of Cabo Pulmo
Divers, first began his work. A crimson
sunset exploded in the distance. The flaming
sun ending its effort by melting into
the tepid sea, but not before painting
every cloud in the sky.
The Castro family’s presence in
Cabo Pulmo extends back to the early 1800’s
when Mario’s grandfather Jesus Castro
Foil, enjoyed celebrity status as a famous
pearl diver at the height of the pearl
fishing industry. Jesus’ success
entertained big ideas of fame and fortune
among divers in nearby communities. Before
long, pearls were over harvested and the
fishing trend that followed determined
the future of the Castro family. The demand
for sharks during WW II ignited a brutal
fishingfrenzy in Cabo Pulmo that resulted
in over fishing so severe that its impact
on the shark population is still noticeable
throughout the Sea of Cortez today.
By the early 80’s, the decline in
marine life had become so devastating
to Cabo Pulmo that it threatened the very
survival of the community. Consequently,
Mario was unable to work locally so he
set off to find work as a fishing boat
captain in Cabo San Lucas. There were
no positions available so Mario took a
job as a dive boat captain. Sport diving
allowed Mario to explore his relationship
with the ocean in a deeper way and within
a month he became a divemaster, returning
to Cabo Pulmo shortly thereafter.
Mario recognized that sport diving provided
the community with an opportunity to prosper
without harming the environment. And in
1985, he opened Cabo Pulmo Divers, an
eco-tour business, promoting sustainable
tourism in the area that would soon become
recognized as Cabo Pulmo National Marine
Park by the Federal government.
During those years, another tragic threat
to the marine life in Cabo Pulmo occurred
as the growing demand for sea turtles
promised very poor fisherman a lucrative
income. Locals quickly began targeting
sea turtles, killing them by the thousands
every week, contributing greatly to their
current endangered status. Today, due
to the efforts of marine biologists, conservationists
and community educational programs aimed
at educating the fisherman, sea turtle
populations are on the rise in Baja California
Sur.
Cabo Pulmo’s remote
setting and small town charm distinguishes
it from other towns in southern Baja where
massive resort complexes and tourist megaplexes
reign as the preferred vacation spot.
Cabo Pulmo is off the power grid making
all development in the area dependent
on the use of solar power—a fitting
energy source in a place where the sun
is almost always shining.
Most properties in Cabo Pulmo maintain
a consistent level of service and amenities.
I spent my time at the Cabo Pulmo Beach
Resort; a quiet bungalow village operated
by the Barrymore family who have led the
community in responsible real estate development
for over 30 years. Phase I of their master-plan
extends from the main road down to the
shores of the Marine Park and is positioned
right in the heart of the town. It’s
here you’ll enjoy wandering pathways
framed by brightly painted walls and matching
bungalows brushed in apricot, turquoise
and lavender. The residences are also
available for rent for extended periods
and feature private beaches and gardens,
viewing decks, barbeques, full kitchens,
baths and master suites. Prices range
from $49 to $79 US dollars per night.
Dining options in Cabo Pulmo are limited
so consider bringing a few groceries with
you to take advantage of the fully equipped
kitchens provided in most of the bungalows
in town. There are only a few restaurants
in operation and I enjoyed the food and
ambiance at each. Caballeros, near the
center of town, features traditional Mexican
cuisine and serves breakfast, lunch and
dinner. At La Palapa, a beachside patio
restaurant serving lunch only, you can
feast on seafood tacos while taking in
the best ocean view on the beach south
of town. Tito’s, located at the
northern entrance to Cabo Pulmo, just
reopened and flaunts the skills of celebrated
Los Cabos executive chef Alfredo Rosas.
During our stay, Alfredo prepared a delicious
gourmet dish of Chiles en Nogadas for
our group. Nancy’s is also a good
call, especially when fresh tuna and scallops
are available. Whether you opt to grill
seafood in your private garden BBQ or
venture out to dine with the locals, rest
assured that food and spirits are central
to celebrating the joy of living in Cabo
Pulmo!
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